About Cosmeceutical

All about cosmeseutical

By Michael Woodcock, MD | May 27, 2019

The term “Cosmeceutical” was invented by New York Dermatologist, Dr. Albert Kligman in 1984. He used to describe substances that offered both cosmetic and therapeutic benefits. Dr. Kingman was the inventor of “Retin-A” after his research discovered that a form of Vitamin A could reduce acne and wrinkles.
What is Cosmeceutical Skincare?
Cosmeceutical Skincare is 100% an AMERICAN innovation.
The success of Dr. Kligman’s breakthrough with Vitamin A and Retin-A cream (which is still prescribed by doctors to millions of patients today) lead 5 things happening that created modern Cosmeceutical Skincare:
Dermatologists, Scientists and Cosmetic Chemists started looking at other forms of Vitamin A for use in skincare. They looked at the effects of other vitamins such as Vitamin C and E. They considered ways that products used in office procedures such as Chemical Peels and Microdermabrasion crystals could be incorporated in milder versions into daily use cosmetics and moisturizers.
Dermatologists began launching and marketing their own skincare brands. Some that are now very famous are: Obagi, Murad and Periconne as well as “ProActive” from Doctors’ Riordan and Fields.
A few CUSTOM Cosmetic Manufacturing LABS in the USA started to work with these and other doctors to developing custom products that focused on therapeutic ingrendients based on modern science. Soon, new elite labs opened in the USA to specialize in this field and supply products to the Cosmeceutical brands and by “Private Label. ” These manufacturing labs are “state of the art” with the best equipment, cleanliness and access to the worlds best ingredients. They are registered with the FDA and many have passed rigorous standards to obtain OTC Drug manufacturing licenses as well. They also are licensed and inspected by the health departments of the USA states they are a located in.
There is no other country in the world Cosmeceutical Skincare could hav developed.This is because of the private nature of the Medical System in the USA. In many other countries, most health care is delivered at Hospitals and large clinics. However, in the USA, people only go to the hospital for surgery or emergencies. Most medical care, and most of the USA’s doctors, work in their own small private practices. In the USA there are over 10,000 small, private DERMATOLOGIST’S clinics as well as 1000’s more specialized in just plastic surgery! This system allowed Cosmeceutical Skincare thrive as it provided a large distribution network outside the department store counters dominated by fashion brands.
The USA FDA has historically decided not to heavily regulate cosmetics, allowing fast innovation and introduction of new ingredients. The FDA was satisfied that strong consumer protection and truth in advertising laws in the USA as well as the voluntary FDA registration program for cosmetic manufacturers was sufficient. This allowed innovation to flourish. The FDA also allowed “Private Labeling” by FDA registered manufacturers -- allowing them to make skincare products with the doctor’s name on them.
The 10,000+ Dermatologists offices in the USA during this time began selling
skincare products directly to their patients as well as the offices of 1000’s of Plastic Surgeons. They focused on products that would solve their patients problems and protect their skin. This lead them to sell Cosmeceuticals skincare rather than famous fashionable brands. Along the way, some of the elite cosmeceutical manufacturing labs began offering to “Private Label” versions many of the common skin care products they made. Digital printing allowed them to produce custom labels in small quantities with the doctors name as the brand. This grew and grew popularity as many American consumers trusted their doctor and where happy to get their skincare products from them. A great synergy emerged. Based on the real world results and needs of their patients, the Doctors started telling the labs which ingredients they wanted in the products, and at what percentages, and also which ingredients they wanted left out. The labs started to offer customization of private labeled Cosmeceutical skincare. Over several decades, this collaboration of the Labs and the 1000’s of doctor offices gave birth to the USA Cosmeceutical skincare industry which is now estimated to sell US $4 Billion annually and compromises 30% of USA skincare sales.Why so successful without movie stars and celebrities and TV commercials?Because the products are so EFFECTIVE!

Michael Woodcock, MD

Board Certified Ophthalmologist & Refractive Surgeon

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